The strays of Sucre

Bolivia has a lot of stray dogs. But they are not the sad, unhealthy looking flea bags we have seen in Brazil, or even in Europe in the past. You think of stray dogs like the ones in Battersea adverts - all ribs and mange and big, hurt, abandoned eyes. Not here. In fact, these animals look so energetic and happy that it is difficult to tell weather or not they are in fact stray, or weather Bolivia just treats its dogs like we do cats. Perhaps it's just that the Bolivian people just let them have free run, going where they please. I can't tell. Either way, I am quite enjoying the observation of these little urban packs. They seem to move in groups quite varied in breed, and I do mean breed - some quite recognisable, rather than the expected mixed breed mutts. The stray dogs I have seen in other countries all seem to have a similar cast to them - short and sandy coated. But here, aside from the Heinz 57 variety, I have seen Labradors, mountain dogs, Alsatians, many terrier breeds and even collies. They trot around Sucre like they own the place - 3 or 4 dogs of varying sizes in a pack, mostly ignoring the humans, who mostly ignore them back. Occasionally one stops briefly to have its ears scratched in an almost unconscious manner by a local reading the paper on a bench. Then off they trot. I have befriended a couple, just for short periods of time and almost accidentally. Passing a largish black and sandy dog, I unconsciously said "who's a good dog" (because it's a reflex, what can I say) and this fellow decided that yes, it was him, so he hopped up and followed us for a few streets, until I gave him a pat and a ruffle, then off he went. They also seem to have worked out that if they wait and only cross the roads on the heel of a human, then they are less likely to fl foul of Sucre's busy and fairly un-fathomable traffic system. This gives the illusion at first glance that these dogs are in leads and out with their owners, but this image is quickly lost as they re-assert their independence and the person crossing the road gives them not a glance. There are, however, the occasional domesticated dogs - though far less than in the UK - with collars and leads and even little jackets to keep off the nighttime mountain chill. And though I love my dogs dearly and would not change the owner/pet relationship I have with them, I can't help but feel a little sorry for Sucre's more pampered pooches. I wonder what it's like for them seeing their peers totally free and happy with the kind of pack hierarchy that you just don't get with dogs who have human masters. I know that I will continue to watch them with fascination. The naturalness of it is lovely.